Connie in Morocco and Beyond

These are my travel experiences beginning with my Peace Corps service in Morocco from 2006-2008. At the request of friends and my own desire to document, I continued blogging my journeys to other countries as well as in the U. S., including my service as a Peace Corps Response Volunteer in South Africa for most of 2014. This blog will continue as my travel journal.

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Location: Billings, Montana, United States

The Big Sky country of Montana is home sweet home!

Monday, April 28, 2014

WATCH YOUR LANGUAGE!

One of my friends questioned why the Afrikaan  language was still a required subject in most South African schools. Good question!
But first, a couple of photos of the nearby Botanical Gardens that I enjoyed on a long walk today, as it is a public holiday.  You can see that the trees are starting to turn color; many have lots most of their leaves since we're well into fall now,
So, yesterday I mentioned that it's only been 20 years since South Africa has been a democracy.  It's hard for us Americans to realize all the implications of that.  When I was in Morocco, it had been just 50 years since they were independent...the last ruling country was France.  So although the "first" language of the country was classical Arabic, and that's the one the taught in lst grade, it was required that French be taught starting in third grade, as the government documents were in French.  Add to that the fact that there are still 3 Berber languages alive and well, and that the common language of the street was Darija, the Moroccan Arabic that is not written but transliterated.  What a mess!  No wonder only 50% of the kids in the rural areas graduate from high school.

Meanwhile, back to South Africa. There are many tribal languages that are still spoken, but for years the ruling class were the Afrikaans (after they took care of the Brits) so that has been the language of the government and taught in schools. Since many Afrikaaners still live here, that is their language, although most of them do speak English, as do most blacks.  I would guess that perhaps in a few decades, Afrikaan won't be required, as most of the younger people will speak primarily English.  And, of course, the black population certainly does not want to have to speak it.  Anyway, that's my take on it.

Oh, and P. S.  Yes, it is much easier to move around in a country where nearly everyone speaks your language,except that's not quite the case here.  They speak South African English, which is not American English, and I struggle with the accents on many people. (Could be compounded by a bit of a hearing issue as well?)  But I am told that I am the one with the accent!  :)

Sunday, April 27, 2014

FREEDOM DAY IN SOUTH AFRICA

 “No one is born hating another person because of the colour of his skin, or his background, or his religion. People must learn to hate, and if they can learn to hate, they can be taught to love, for love comes more naturally to the human heart than its opposite.” Nelson Mandela


This, from today's Sunday Times:

"Retired Archbishop Desmond Tutu has said he is happy Nelson Mandela is dead - so he does not have to see what South Africa’s current leaders are doing to the country.“I didn't think there would be a disillusionment so soon,” he told South Africa’s Sunday Times, before adding: “I'm glad that Madiba is dead. I'm glad that most of these people are no longer alive to see this,” referring to the slow pace of transformation.


His comments come as South Africa celebrates Freedom Day - a commemoration of the country's first post-apartheid elections which happened 20 years ago today. Tutu, a close friend of Mandela and the de factor leader of the liberation movement in South Africa while he was in prison, was left out of Mandela’s funeral programme by the ANC, and almost not invited at all.

Since Jacob Zuma became president, Tutu has become increasingly critical of the African National Congress (ANC), which has held power in South Africa since the end of apartheid in 1994 - first under the leadership of Mandela.

Tutu has already made it clear he will not be voting for the ANC in South Africa’s elections next month - the first since Mandela’s death."

Saturday, April 26, 2014

MONEY

Here's a bag of Rands.  The approximate value of R1 is $.10, so R10 is about $1...except, the exchange rate favors the $ and fluctuates on a daily basis.  For example, today I bought 3 avocados at the store for R10 but it the cost was actually was $.94.  (nice!?) When you get up into the hundreds and higher, it can make a difference!  But the "about" makes it easy to convert.

Checking accounts are virtually non-existent, at least on a personal level.  The banks have savings accounts, which, like the U. S. pay little or no interest.  The Peace Corps (as do many other employers) pay by direct deposit to a bank, and the employee (volunteer) has a debit card to withdraw funds.  There are some stores that you pay for your merchandise with a debit card and can get up to R500 back in cash.  There is a flat monthly fee or unlimited transactions of about R90.  You can also pay for air time for your phone or data for internet directly to the provider from your online account.  The banks here really are providing disincentives for going inside and using teller services, as they make charges for all transactions done through a teller, but not online or ATM.  Likely they're a step ahead of us in that area.

I've learned a lot about what people spend money on, and oddly enough, there are strong similarities between here and the U. S. in some areas.  Maybe I already mentioned that social workers from two different provinces commented on how women (especially younger) with little means will spend too much money (in their view) on hair styling/products and shoes.  And that somehow the young unemployed men always have money (given to them by the moms?) to drink, and often,too much. Sound familiar?  A lot of people survive on social grants.  Pensioners get R1,650 a month.  People in the country can get by on that, as they don't have mortgages or rent, as the tribe provides the land and houses are usually handed down to generations.  Many do not have electricity, and there is no charge for water.  But still, a pretty meager existence.  All that being said, once again, culture prevails.  Marriages and funerals are a very big deal everywhere in this country, and much money is spent on them.  People have burial societies, which is like a co-op where people put n a prescribed amount every month and when someone in their family dies, they get a set amount to pay for food and the normal burial expenses of coffin, etc.  There are a lot of ads on TV as well for burial insurance.  People have told me they don't have enough money for a borehole in their yard (a well for water) but they plan to spend R50,000 on their wedding, which would likely more than be enough to have water next to their house.  Same deal with weddings.  It's hard not to judge a culture where ceremonial customs prevent them from improving their daily life.  But, are we all that different?....

Some things are fairly inexpensive here, and some things are about the same or more expensive, so for me, it about evens out, I think. My downfall is that there are many nice bakeries/coffee shops nearby that have lots of great breads/sweet rolls/dessert type of thing, and generally less than what I'd pay at home.  So I rationalize that I deserve it once in awhile!    Oh, I should mention that petrol runs between $5-6 a gallon.  That is probably the most significant expensive item.  One of the reasons tourism travel here can get pricey.

So that covers money.  Maybe I'll do a post on sex next.   No, languages, first.  :)

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

WATER

One nice thing about traveling in South Africa is that you can drink the tap water in the larger towns/cities.  The only time I felt compelled to drink bottled was in a village, and then I was staying with other PCVs who had the bucket filter system.  Interestingly, however, there are no public water fountains anywhere...not even in the modern airport or places like that you'd think there would be some.

Also, around the world one can usually find a plethora of McDonalds.  Here you can spot one every so often, but KFC is the biggie. Can't say that I've patronized either one at this point.

Am slogging away at the draft of the manual, and also starting to get serious about researching places to go/see when my friends come in October for a visit for two weeks.  I'm getting quite a bit of great info from other PCVs who have already traveled; they are great resources!

Here's some photo of birds in my yard, for my bird-loving friends.



Monday, April 21, 2014

EASTER 2014

This year ranks up there as one of my more unusual Easter weekends.  One of the best was in Paris with my dear friends Don and Nancy Hamilton in 2008.  Many, many fond memories of childhood Easters with my siblings coming home with their kids, and we'd color eggs and hide them all over the front yard for my nieces and nephews to find.

I was in Durban three years ago with my friend Linda and sure have a different perspective of the city this time.  I stayed in a backpacker's place near the strange shaped high rise, near Ushaka Marine World.  Great location, very close to the beach.
My room at the "Happy Hippo"
My room was a private en suite (that means bathroom in your room, not shared), which was pricey by hostel standards, but about 1/3 of what I would have had to pay at a hotel, especially for a holiday weekend.  I bought groceries at a nearby store and ate numerous meals there, in addition to going out in the area.  On Friday I met a guy staying there from Joburg and we walked the beach area for about an hour.  On Saturday I went to the hotel where I had stayed previously and indulged in their great breakfast buffet, and that afternoon I did the three-hour bus tour of the city, and had fun with some of the other tourists on the bus.  That evening I had a great visit with a group of PCVs staying at the hostel from Lesotho.  Learned about that country, their work etc.  One of them was a young man from Fargo, who plans to learn how to sail and then spend a year sailing the oceans when he is done with service.  Ya gotta have a dream!!

The people at the reception desk strongly discouraged me from walking to church, so I took a private taxi there.  During tea following the church service, I was visiting with a woman who worked at the Y, and she kindly gave me a ride back.  Random act of kindness, yes?  Then I went to the beach and played in the ocean, then walked down to the soccer stadium.  I had an idea to climb the stairs to the top of the arch (you can also bungee jump or take a "sky car" rather than do the 536 steps) but no go as there was a soccer match going on and they close the arch during that time, so I didn't have to make a big decision on what to do.
If these photos look unlike my other photos, it's because I forgot my camera at home and so took these images from the internet!

I did feel a bit lonesome and missing my family, but was glad to have beautiful weather on a lovely beach with a few friendly faces around the hostel to brighten my Easter weekend!  I likely will return here once more before I leave.

Monday, April 14, 2014

THREE MONTHS AND SOAPIES

It's been three months since I arrived in South Africa.  I have seen and done SO much in that period of time that while it went by fast, it does seem as though I've been here a long time.  Now we're entering winter and shorter days and my work is becoming a bit tedious, so methinks the next three will drag a bit.  Lots of reading, and watching movies and TV series on my computer.  It's already running between 60-64 in my house so I can see why June and July will not be pleasant.  I'll try not to gripe about it too much.

Yes, TV.  Well, they run what they call their "soapies" during prime time...which are some of their own African shows, but Day at a Time and Bold and Beautiful can also be viewed.  Then news, or nuus if you're watching the Afrikaaners version.  Then perhaps a decent movie or program comes on at 8 or 8:30. I won't complain too much, though, as my landlady was kind enough to leave the ancient TV in here and hook up the antennae so I get a bit of diversion without any cost.  Anyway, back to soapies and the news.  When one has Blade Runner Pistorius (remember the Paralympian who allegedly murdered his girlfriend) and Zuma (the current ANC president) and the whole political scene, to read or see in the news, that is about all the soap opera one really needs. Seriously.  I'm going to start burning up a few of my American $ to buy more data (internet usage) to read U. S. papers online.

Sunday, April 13, 2014

PALM SUNDAY

This is my new church home.  It is a twenty minute walk from my cottage (all uphill) and is also on the way to the mall where I buy groceries, etc., and today, watched "12 Years a Slave."  I also go to Saturday morning meetings here fairly often, and was invited to join a few women yesterday for coffee afterwards.  One of the women helps with Habitat in Pretoria, so hopefully I can spend a Saturday from time to time on a build!


As is customary in so many churches, the children processed in at the start of worship, waving palms.



 Here also is the minister Rev. Vusi (his first name), the organist, and the pianist Vivenne who lives near me and gave me a ride to an evening event at the church.


While walking there this morning,I was listening to the end of the Ken Follett book, "Winter of the World".  There was a comment made about a father who died shielding the truth from the Nazis, that was quite appropriate for this season.  "We all have to die sometime, and he died trying to make a better life for others."  I guess maybe that's a bit of the reason why I am here, I want to die knowing that I did what I could to make life better for others.

Sunday, April 06, 2014

POLITICS

I mentioned recently that there are nine languages in South Africa. Democracy at work...there are 13 political parties!   I buy the Sunday paper and then read on it all week while I have breakfast and supper, and regularly watch Aljazeera early morning news on TV. Considering what goes on here makes the U. S. look like pretty angelic.  We just don't know how good our country is compared to the rest of the world.  And, how we must never take our freedoms for granted!

The current regime, ANC, that is now in power under Zuma is so corrupt it is unbelievable. But it is the party Mandela was involved with years ago, and the main opposition, the DA, is the one that oppressed the blacks, so many blacks will never vote for the DA even though they readily acknowledge the corruption of the ANC.  On the other hand, even some black people will say that the government ran better before apartheid was abolished.

It is very complicated and emotional.  Even though there are some blacks now in the DA, the two main parties are basically thought of as black and white.  There are many of both races who want to eliminate that distinction, but it will take more time, methinks.  Anyway, it is interesting.

Friday, April 04, 2014

CAMP I AM

My landlady runs day camps during school breaks for underprivileged kids, although the most recent camp that had 280 kids attending included some that were from middle-class homes. It was a wonderful camp that addresses values, democracy, spelling, and numerous other topics. My counterpart and I visited one day last week, as Operation Hope trains the "coaches" to lead financial literacy sessions.  Here's some of the kids, as well as a few leaders taking a break from a dance session.  It was fun to see their enthusiasm and energy.  It was quite a distance from the city, and was nice to get out in the countryside again.

Wednesday, April 02, 2014

THIS N THAT

On the street (near) where I live.  Am so enjoying all the beautiful flowers and bushes.  These are a bit unusual.  Lots of rose bushes outside homes.


Some Common Sayings: 
Is it?:  Really?   Really!  Is that right?  No kidding! 
Sorted:  Organized.  Figured out.  In order
Scheme: is often used in place of “plan,” as in a long-range scheme, not in a negative way
Packet:  a sack or bag, as in “a packet of chips” 
Pavement:  the sidewalk
Zebras:  pronounced zehbras

Language:  There are 9 native local languages, but many are somewhat similar, so quite a few blacks will speak at least two.  Often as you listen to a conversation in Zulu or another language, you will usually hear an English word sprinkled in, as sometimes there’s just no word in their language to say it.  Also, numbers are always in English.  Educated blacks speak their local language, plus Afrikaan and English.  Afrikaan is still required in the school systems, although it is not mandatory in some private schools.    Many three syllable words have the emphasis on different syllables than we do.   I find it difficult a times to understand their accents, particularly over the phone.  Could be my old-age hearing…

Commute:  The shortest time getting to work by bus/taxi is 40 minutes…20 minutes walking and 20 minutes bus ride each way but it can take longer if the bus doesn’t show.  I usually leave the house a little after 7 a.m., get there around 8, work without break until 3, then walk to the bus stop. When the bus doesn’t show up after I wait 30 minutes past the usual time, I flag down a public taxi (van ) and catch a ride part way then walk the rest.  I generally walk at least 30-40 minutes a day just to/from work which is fine with me, except when there’s a downpour, which often occurs unexpectedly.  Public transportation is just not terribly convenient or reliable, except for a great short line train between Joburg and Pretoria.  The worst part is not being able to get around easily at night.

My house: Has windows with bars, as nearly all windows do in this country, (even in the country, but no screens.  No too many bugs in the house, though.  Most floors are tiled here in the city.  Generally no central heat or air, even in this upscale neighborhood, and electricity is very expensive, so most people just add more layers on their body and blankets on their bed. No one seems to like winter very much because of the cold, but I don’t think it rains much so that should be a redeeming factor, and the coldest  months are June and July.  I finally discovered I have pretty good internet upstairs so bought myself a plastic table and have a nice little place now to work on the computer.  And, it’s a bit warmer up here so that will be good come winter in a couple of months, since I’ll be doing lots of movie/TV series watching on my computer then as well.