SAME, SAME. Amazing what little diversions can add to my life here; yesterday a friend I was expecting to visit had to cancel and I didn't have the card games and hike I was looking forward to, and that resulted in a bit of depression. This morning I went for my walk, and at the suggestion of a friend, listened to my ipod. I had been concerned about the inability to hear with it, but it presented no problem. The music did lift my spirits.

As I walked, I once again reflected on how similar things are here; that is, you smile and wave at people near the road, and they smile and wave back. It's the same, the world 'round, yes?! Then I had to laugh, as a few feet up the road I was overcome by a rather strong, unpleasant odor, and I thought, "Yeah, this is one thing that isn't the same, and that I won't miss...the smell of donkey doo!"

25 months here. Wow, guess I will actually make it! Sure has been lots of ups and downs, joy and sadness, frustration and satisfaction. Am so glad that I chose to do this, and so glad I will soon be home.

L'HAMDULLAH! The newly made roads signs were put up today. Not exactly perfectly, but the message is there and they are sturdy. Because the neddy is a non-profit, they can't really advertise like other businesses, which on one hand, is good. We didn't have to pay anyone anything to put the sign up on the road, and I think most tourists will get the idea. We'll soon find out, as there has been no activity off the road from our little sign just outside the door.

The three young women are going to Kech tomorrow to visit the Ministry representative to learn what he has to say about how to run the Association, as well visit the trade house of my friend Inger with the Women's World Bank in Spain. I'll stay here and tend the store, then we will get serious about bookkeeping and computer skills next week. The last day of Ramadan is October 1 or 2, depending upon the moon. After that, life will return to normal and classes will begin at the neddy as well.

OHO, LOOK AT THE SNOW! ("oho" in Berber dialect means "no") Had a good rainfall last night; rather unusual for this time of year here, but very welcomed! Went to hang up a few things on the clothesline (on the roof) this morning, and look it there! Once again snow on "my" distant mountain. You'll recall that recently I posted photos showing the difference between my view in winter and the summer dust storms. Now it's clear and clean and pretty once more, which also means I actually dug out my fleece vest and wore it last night in my house. But, just one layer for now.

Light rain again today, more computer training at
the neddy; the young women are a delight! When they cross over hands on the keyboard I grab their hand, and we hold hands for a minute and laugh. One knows a bit of English, the other very little. The Microsoft programs are in French, which they know. I have learned much of the computer terminology, but I have never quite mastered the French "r." Somehow we still make it work.

Yesterday they were slouching at the keyboard, resting their wrists on the table (the ergonomics are awful, anyway) and thinking of their need to sit up straight, I mumbled (who, me mumble?!) in English, "knockers up", and one of the women giggled...she understood those words! lol

WEATHER REPORT. It's warmed up here again, as I see it has in Montana, as well. It gets pretty hot during the day for anyone who has to be out in the sun, especially considering they aren't drinking or eating in that heat. It remains a very comfortable temperature in my house, and I am enjoying that. Good thing...I seem to be in the doldrums a lot, anxious to finish up and get home to family and friends.

BUT! Things are getting done now. All the sewing/knitting machines now work, all the doors have new door handles and locks that work, new and younger officers have been elected to serve the neddy. I look forward to working with the new young women and training them on some computer and other business skills. The next four weekends in a row I either have company or PC business at other locations, so that is all good.

My counterpart and I went to see the mayor yesterday, as there was some question as to the possibility of payment to have the large signs by the road. I gave him my song and dance in my pidgeon Darija and we walked out with a "mashi mushkil" (no problem) result. I hope to be able to post a photo of one of those signs within a week. My former tutor was here yesterday to check in at the high school, and discovered she may not be teaching her English classes until later in October. They have no headmaster, no comptroller, no workable schedule of classes, not enough teachers. Whew! Sounds like a few problems!

In the meantime, I still have lots of movies to watch and book to read. I am trying to take a Spanish class online and find that what little Moroccan Arabic I know is interfering with the learning process of another new language, but I'll struggle through and finish it, then look forward to a live class after I get home.

FASTING. No, children do not have to fast. So, at this time there is school for elementary ages, but no school yet for junior and senior high. They, and their teachers, are fasting, so they wait until after Ramadan to begin. There are several accepted excuses for not fasting, one of which I mentioned in my previous blog, but it is expected that any days missed will be made up at a later date. For example, required work in situations where it would be dangerous to your health and/or others to not drink...perhaps in extremely hot environment.

Everyone breaks their fast at sunset and that time is announced on TV and by the call to prayer; this year it is about 6:45. Then many people will eat again about 10:00-11:00 and go to bed, then get up to have bread and tea or something about 4 a.m. That schedule/meals varies among households. Maybe that helps explain why Ramadan is not quite so challenging in the winter when the days are short...and very difficult in the summer.

9/ll

Returning from a wool buying trip in Marrakech, I looked at the fifty some Moroccans on the bus, (mostly all men) and while thinking about today’s date, reflected how non-threatened I feel by Muslims. I know there are mothers here whose hearts are broken because a son has left home and gone astray and into trouble because of alcohol and drugs, or perhaps has even become a terrorist. So many things are common the world around...are there not many mothers in America who suffer from similar sadness?

We stopped on the way at my counterpart’s son’s home to see grandkids, and the daughter-in-law offered me tea (and bread, of course), telling me it’s not a problem if I partake, because she isn’t fasting as she is having her period (an excusable reason for not fasting, but those days are to be “made up” later). I looked at them and said, “Well, so I am, so OK, I will eat and drink.” They looked at me rather startled for a second, then we all had a good laugh. Another commonality...we can share a good sense of humor without knowing the language well...

This son's family just moved only 20k from our town and Malika really misses the grandkids, who formerly lived next door to her. I think she is finally realizing how difficult that aspect of living here has been for me...being SO far away from family, and for so long.

I just received more photos from the trip my friends and I took last May. Here is a nice shot of us heading out into the desert in late afternoon. We were on the camels for about 1 1/2 hours. (I'm bringing up the rear) Plenty long enough. The next is at our campsite.

The blue scarves are traditional garb for that part of Morocco. They are cotton, and serve as a very necessary garment to protect head and neck against the ravaging sun and winds. We were fortunate not to experience either during our visit there. Three of us slept out under the stars; quite nice!

This is the interior of part of the multi-million ($) complex that creates fossil items for sale. The area around Erfoud is well-known worldwide for its fossil beds. I would love to have one of the tables for my house, but of course they weigh a ton, so not practical to ship. I settled for a small paperweight instead!

And one of the funnest things we saw, lots of trees with lots of goats. If goats can scale mountain peaks, why not argan trees?! It sure does catch the eye!

IT'S A DIFFERENT DAY. After an invigorating 1 1/2 hour walk this morning, I went to the neddy with Sana, and Malika appeared shortly after, with a man who is a journalist. She wanted me to accompany them to see a couple of the women who live out in the douars. So I in my flip flops traversed over hill and dale and rocks for another hour. Who says I don't get workouts here!

I discovered the man was with a TV station out of Casablanca. He must be doing a feature story on poor rural women. We first visited the home of a woman who just started coming to the neddy about six months ago. She is a dwarf and makes straw-woven items, but also pretty nice woven wool rugs. I had a chance to visit with her a bit about making smaller items for wall and/or table décor to sell in the boutique. She was with the group that went to see the King a couple of months ago and likes me because I walked with her and helped her maneuver around a bit.

The next trip was over to see Fatima, "my" beader lady who had recent heart surgery. She is such a gentle, sweet woman, and for such a petite lady, sure can give strong hugs. (Hugs really aren't common here...but I do hug some of the women I really like, and they've been returned.) Her beaded necklaces and bracelets have really improved, thanks to good input from Global Village in Billings, who purchased some of her product a year ago. I will buy more beads in order for her to make me some items for gift giving.

Later in the day, I reviewed some of the things that needed to be done at the neddy. Sana wants to learn how to make stuffed camels to sell at the boutique, but none of the sewing machines work. Apparently there is a repairman in the next town, and Malika has called him, and he'll come, inshallah. The big signs need to be put up, but now I am told there is a charge to put them up on a public road. Before this time, it was mashi mushkil. No problem. So we need to know how much it will cost and arrange for someone to install them. I decided to just get it done and not wait until we have a big stock of product; we need to get some customers in the store now. And the list goes on. All of these things round out the Peace Corps Partnership Program (PCPP) funding to which many of you contributed, and I must wrap it up within a month. So perhaps the possibility of having to return funds to America (to the general grant program) will be a motivating force in getting things accomplished this month. I will be doing my best to make it happen.

Ups and downs. I must focus on the ups! Like, I haven't seen a roach, dead or alive, in my house for a couple of months! It's not been over 85 in my house lately! I'm having a ham and cheese sandwich in Marrakech today (at a Dutch-owned restaurant) with a friend who is enjoyable company! Bet these aren't the things that make your day, lol!

I was enjoying full blogging capability at home, but all of a sudden it's vanished, so am sending this from an internet café in Kech, and will blog again later when able.

AJI HNAYA! Come here! We're open for business. For my newer blog readers, you can click on the photo to enlarge, and if you can't read the little red sign, please do that! It's directed to the #1 tourist in Morocco...the French. Sana and I did a "silent" opening this morning. We just put out the sign and stayed open from 9:30-3:30. No customers, but that was not too much of a surprise. A lot of tourists avoid coming here during Ramadan, and there has been no other publicity. During the next week we will get flyers out to a couple of nice cafes in each direction, plus a few other spots.

Here is a before photo on the left, and the after on the right, with some of the ceramics, weavings, and beaded jewelryon the shelves, as well as the mashi mica (less plastic) bags on the bottom shelf.

The before on the left, after on the right.

Here is Sana patiently awaiting some action. We have the two movable, shelved partitions making the corner space, plus the table to display items.

This is the view looking out the door

of the boutique towards the road to

Marrakech. This sign, as well as the

two large road signs yet to be installed, were the second highest cost items of the project. All the letters were hand painted. The adhesive ones are available, but longevity is much less.

RAMADAN. This is my third and last Ramadan in Morocco; I guess I have "arrived" because people have accepted that I have my own religion and do not fast. I still get invited to l-ftur, (which is break fast, but after the sun sets) to have hrira, which is a ground chickpea soup, a bit like minestrone; depending on how the cook makes it...and same "depends" as to whether it is excellent or not so great.

The fasting tends gets more difficult for many Muslims every year now for a few years, as the date of Ramadan moves up 11 days, which means it has moved to early fall, then summer. The fasting is from sunrise to sunset, and with the longer days, I'm just glad I won't be here for the next few, especially having to rely on public transportation. It's bad enough when it's very hot, much less when drivers haven't eaten/drunk anything for hours. The government went to daylight savings time this past summer for the first time in years and it was scheduled to last until October, but they moved it ahead to accomodate the long day issue for Ramdan, so we're back to regular time again. Not that most people in the countryside never did change to daylight time, LOL.

I am getting a bit acccomplished; a couple of the big reports due by Oct. 1 are nearly completed, doing some house cleaning, organizing things, AND Sana and I might actually put out the boutique open for business sign out Thursday morning and see if anyone wanders in. She is pretty excited about it; so am I! Will post a photo of the interior in a few days.

MY GUYS. Okay, the secret's out! I do have men in my life; here are four of them. These are 4 of the 5 sons of my counterpart, Malika. They are all very nice to me and if I need help, they're there for me. Iyub is 17, Samir 26 (married with two sons) Sufean 21 (wishing for a wife), and Ismayid, 14. Samir has chauffered me on several trips and is now enjoying referrals for his dependable performance. It is such a wonderful difference seeing the country in a private auto, compared to public transportation.

The oldest son, not pictured, is married and lives in Ouarzazate. Iyub is the renegade; he wears his hair longer and styles it, does not like school, sasses his mother, doesn't like Ramadan or hrira, but is a charmer nonetheless. Sufean runs their garage, a very hard worker. The youngest loves soccer and is a happy kid. They're basically all good guys and I would trust each one of them with my life. Who would have thought I would ever say that about a Muslim man?! Yes, the Peace Corps experience has made changes in my life.